When a house like Gucci thrives seventies does so with a sense of conviction that is unmatched. The decade was a golden age and Gucci Frida Gianni seventies girl at heart, must have delighted in the preparation of this spring collection. It was compelling from the outset, from the opening look – a button through narrow shoulder A-line skirt suit rendered in white leather – the dresses toffee-colored suede coat with gold buttons stonking marine; this collection zinged with confidence. Blue denim – a favorite Gianni – Worked on swingy cropped culottes with exaggerated turn-ups and maxi shirt dresses with natty white shoes laces crossing sleeves and plunging necklines. Blousy boho dresses in muted retro prints were covered with patchwork vests exploding in luxury, made from snake skin, shiny hair and Mongolian goat.
The range of colors – and those skins and chamois were more inclined to fallin the summer – something that seems to be less of a trend and more of the norm in many of the collections to date. Now is the job of the resort collections that flaunt summer colors and fabrics. This clothing store land in February, at a time when most of us are not thinking about shedding our layer – not to mention many other things.
Shorter skirts this afternoon made all point to one thing: the skimming strapless officially – suddenly even the very idea of it seems dated. Instead, Gianni proposed oriental style dresses with mandarin collar and embroidery as a precious antique piano shawl.
This collection had sass, glamor and commercialism in spades – and that’s not even counting the suede boots stacked heel and polished leather saddlebags so old – everything, in fact, that women want from Gucci. Kate Moss and Charlotte Casiraghi (who is the new face of Gucci cosmetics – a new category which debuts today with Pat McGrath as artistic director) cheered from the front row. Any of them would look fabulous in any and every situation.